Use over clean, sound, dimensionally stable masonry or concrete. If the walls are wet, the water source must be discovered and eliminated. Painted concrete should be brush hammered or heavily sand-blasted. Concrete and masonry surfaces should not vary more than 1 /4" in 8 feet.
Expansion and control joints in a masonry or concrete substrate must be mirrored in the thin brick. If a metal lath is used, it must be cut at the expansion joint. Mere the thin brick system meets other materials, flashings must be installed to direct the flow of water clown and out. Do not rely on caulking.
It is good practice to install a wire lath. Use galvanized or stainless steel wire lath for all exterior applications.
Apply the scratch coat of mortar on top of the wire lath, masonry or concrete. Float surface of the scratch coat plumb and true and allow to set until firm.
Apply the setting coat with the straight edge of the trowel, and then the notched edge of the trowel should be used to groove the coat just prior to installation of the thin brick. Then use the notched edge of the trowel to groove the setting coat just prior to installation of the brick.
Backbutter or apply a setting coat to the back of the brick.
Space thin brick 3/8" apart. Beat the brick firmly into position with a beating block or rubber mallet. All edges must be sealed with mortar so that there are no voids between the brick and the wall.
Joints must be free of dirt, debris or spacers. Sponge or wipe dust and dirt from thin brick faces. Press the mortar into joints with a tuck-pointing tool so that they are full and free of pits and voids. Tool joints when recommended by mortar manufacturer. Use a masonry joint tool, screwdriver or other suitable implement. Keep the jointing tool clean and damp.